We descended to Cortez from the Mesa Verde Campground and stopped for groceries at the City Market. We were delighted by the friendly staff, grass fed meat and good selection of organic vegetables.
We took road “G” west from Cortez through a lovely stream valley with Ute Mountain on one side and Canyons of the Ancients National Monument on the other. A slight detour took us up to Hovenweep National Monument for lunch and a quick walk to some tower house ruins.
Built on a promontory, most of the sites in the small Hovenweep campground hae great views. We would love to return here and explore more of the trails and unique ruins.
Continuing west on UT 262 then north on US 191 we reached the dramatic scenery on little traveled UT 95. As we approached Glen Canyon National Recreation Area we smiled remembering our late friend Jim Thayer who led annual Kokopelli cruises on Lake Powell.
Farley Canyon was a frequent camping spot on Kokopelli cruises but when we turned down the access road there was no lake to be seen. We camped by an existing fire ring on a level spot well below the bathtub ring where the lake had been. Our GPS showed us under water and there were tiny white clam shells on the ground around the truck.
We walked down the extended road and eventually came to a small finger of water and a place where we could see the Colorado River in the distance. After years of draught, Lake Powell is vastly diminished. The only campers here, we enjoyed a small campfire (not a “white man’s fire” as Jim called a big one) and a quiet night.